Yes, this blog is generally supposed to be about our time in and around Benin, but that time and continental proximity also lent itself to our ability to visit my friends from AUC in Cairo last week. Here’s a quick run-down:
Day 1
Met up with fellow Benin PCV Sebastian, who was in transit to Ethiopia. Bush taxi to Lomé. minibus to Accra. Ate Chinese food. Town taxi to the airport, airplane to Egypt. Total travel time: in the neighborhood of 24 hours.
Day 2
Slept. A tragedy, really, but what can you do after so much travel? Got up and had a nice shwarma sandwich, shisha, tea. Got ready for Mike’s 80s party (in celebration of Cairo and general farewell, as he’s off to India next) on a boat on the Nile.
Day 3
Slept some more, after staying up till dawn and watching the sunrise from the top of a nearby hotel. Got up in the afternoon, had sumptuous lunch at the Swiss Restaurant. Later, Jocelyne (a friend of Robert’s), Phoebe, and I went with Rainer down to the Khan el-Khalili. Way later, we went to a belly-dancing joint we remembered from our study-abroad days – a place the guidebook described as “spectacularly seedy.” It did not disappoint, and Sam was greatly pleased to experience the real deal.
Day 4
Got up a little earlier than the previous few days. Visited the Great Pyramids and Sphinx at Giza, which is, of course, a must. Had Pizza Hut across the street, too, which is a must only if you’re a PCV in Benin, I think. Got back and prepped for travel to the Sinai.
Day 5
After traveling half the night, we arrived in Laguna, on the Red Sea. Phoebe’s and Sam’s impressions will probably be more descriptive than mine, but needless to say, it was beautiful: Sun, deep blue water, Saudi Arabia across the way. The Bedouins made some excellent food, too: fresh fish, ta’ameyyah (felafel), gibna (cheese) and other delicacies. (Shocking, considering it took us two hours on a dirt road through a vast nothingness to get there.)
Day 6
A delicious breakfast, more fun in the sun, then another late-night departure to Cairo.
Day 7
Cairo. Got up so we could go to Islamic Cairo and the City of the Dead. An abbreviated tour, to be sure, but worthwhile nonetheless. We met a funny little girl and her sister who took us into one of the mausoleums to be showed around by their uncle and their cousin, had some tea, chatted, and generally enjoyed ourselves greatly. After, we visited some gardens that a rich man has built on top of what used to be, basically, a large trash heap. Great views, milkshakes, but a bit pricey. Next: shopping at the Khan, where Phoebe & I picked up some beautiful pillow covers at the Tentmakers’ Bazaar and a few gifts. For dinner: McDonald’s in Zamalek, where we discovered there is also a Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf. Had a delicious ice cream for dessert at Mandarine, a place that’s been around for a while – and for good reason.
Day 8
Managed to get up again and visit Coptic Cairo, where we mostly soaked in the medieval feel of narrow passages, high stone walls, and incense with Jocelyne. Later, we hit the Egyptian Museum for the highlights: namely Tut’s mask for Phoebe and me and the Mummy Room for Jocelyne. For dinner – can you tell this was a food extravaganza for us sub-saharan Africa folks? – we ate at the Italian Club. The Club is a place for Italians to hang out that recently started letting other folks in. The food was delicious, and they were super-nice, unlike experiences Phoebe’s had at the American Cultural Center in Cotonou.
Day 9
Got up so we could see a bit more of Coptic Cairo, including its very well-designed and interesting (if, sadly, unairconditioned) museum. Had lunch in Zamalek at Maison Thomas – a place that’s been around since 1922 – and zipped over to Tahrir Square to find a very locked-up (it was, after all, the weekend) AUC. We eventually found our way to the airport and enjoyed the bounty: duty free, Mickey D’s, Starbucks, and Cinnabon. It felt just like home (except for the McDonald’s, which we’d never eat in the States). With some sadness, we got on the plane.
Eventually, we arrived in Accra, which wasn’t much of a shock, and ended the day in a decent hotel-cum-restaurant called Frankie’s.
Day 10
Awoke with some disappointment to find we were back in sub-saharan Africa. How did we know? Well, for starters, there were problems with the electricity. This did not affect my glorious hot shower, however (ilhumdulillah). Got out the door eventually and on our way back to Benin.
Epilogue
I can’t say I feel we’re home. Neither of us missed Benin, which I guess isn’t too out of the ordinary – not too many people are happy to see the end of a vacation. It wasn’t a shock, as I thought it might be, to find that people are still as poor here as they were a week and a half ago, nor was it shocking – or even terribly upsetting – to hear the yovo song again. I’m not home, but I’m not unhappy.
Traveling to Ghana and Egypt has had an effect, though, on our perspective. One realizes just how poor this country is, even in comparison to other countries in Africa. There’s also the fact that many people can’t speak French, much less English, though both are official languages and both are taught in schools that supposedly have universal enrollment. It seems that Ghana does a better job at education, and even kids that are not formally educated in Egypt know a smattering or better of several languages. Finally, our trip has helped us realize that the “reverse culture shock” that supposedly occurs upon a PCV’s return to the States will be blunted by the joy at seeing our family and friends and an abundance of everything.
PS: We arrived home to find our house mostly in good repair, save for evidence that our bat problem (in the attic) has not been solved, as well as to find our neighbor wearing my t-shirt. Now, this isn’t any old t-shirt, this is a Camp GLOW t-shirt, one special made for the purpose, and one of which Phoebe has a twin that she was wearing. He said he found it in Cotonou. Not likely.
